Col du Tourmalet, FRA

The Tourmalet is the pass the Tour de France has crossed more often than any other. Since 1910, around 90 times. No other climb has written this many stories, and none carries more Tour DNA in its asphalt than this giant of the Pyrenees.

The Tourmalet at a glance

From Luz-Saint-Sauveur in the west it is 18.3 kilometres and 1,401 metres of climbing to the pass at 2,115 metres, 7.6 percent on average, 10.2 percent at the most. The eastern side from Sainte-Marie-de-Campan measures 17.2 kilometres with around 1,270 metres of climbing, also at about 7.4 percent. Hors catégorie for as long as the term has existed, quite literally: the Tourmalet was one of the first climbs given that label in 1980.

The two ascents

The western side from Luz is the more unpredictable one. After a moderate start, three blocks of eight to ten percent follow from kilometre four, separated by short breathers. Barèges, halfway up, is the last village with cafés and fountains. The finale is the steepest part: the last two kilometres hold a constant nine to ten percent before the pass comes into view.

The eastern side from Sainte-Marie-de-Campan is the classic one, climbing more evenly and easier to pace. The steepest sections sit between kilometres ten and fourteen at eight to ten percent. La Mongie, the ski station at two-thirds height, is the last supply point. At the top stands the Géant du Tourmalet, and the view sweeps across the entire Pyrenean chain, on good days all the way to the Pic du Midi.

History and racing

In 1910 the Tour de France took on the Pyrenees for the first time, and Octave Lapize was the first man over the Tourmalet. His famous outburst “You are murderers!” did not happen here, by the way, but later on the same stage at the Col d’Aubisque, aimed at the Tour officials. Lapize won the 1910 Tour anyway, or precisely because of it.

In 1913 Eugène Christophe broke his fork on the descent, carried his bike for kilometres to Sainte-Marie-de-Campan and forged it back together himself in the village smithy. He was penalised anyway, because a boy had worked the bellows. Modern chapters: in 2010 Andy Schleck won the summit finish in the fog ahead of Alberto Contador without taking back the eight seconds he needed overall. In 2019 Thibaut Pinot won on the pass, and in 2023 Demi Vollering took the queen stage of the Tour de France Femmes on the Tourmalet along with the yellow jersey.

The statue of the Géant du Tourmalet, the iron rider out of the saddle, winters down in the valley. Every first Saturday in June, hundreds of cyclists accompany it back up to the pass at the Montée du Géant. The first rider of the Tour across the Tourmalet receives the Souvenir Jacques Goddet, named after the long-time Tour director whose memorial stands at the top.

Practical tips

The best window is June to September, and the Tourmalet often opens as one of the last Pyrenean passes. The western side is exposed to wind and afternoon thunderstorms, so start in the morning. From the east the climb is sunnier and more sheltered. Water in Barèges or La Mongie. Both sides have good surfaces but narrow roads with motorbike traffic, so avoid weekends if you can.

How does the Tourmalet compare?

The Tourmalet is neither the steepest nor the longest pass, but none has seen more cycling history. Its Alpine counterpart is the Galibier: similar scale, same class of myth. If you want to ride both sides in one day, start in Luz, cross the pass and add the Col d’Aspin after Sainte-Marie-de-Campan. 32 kilometres of encore that are worth it.

The Tourmalet naturally ranks among the top 50 of our 100 climbs, on the 100 Climbs posters and on the compact 50 Climbs edition.

How often has the Tourmalet featured in the Tour de France?

Around 90 times since 1910, more than any other pass. By 2020 the count stood at 87 crossings, with more added since, including the 2023 Tour de France Femmes and Demi Vollering’s summit win.

Which side of the Tourmalet is harder?

Both sides average around 7.4 to 7.6 percent. The western side from Luz-Saint-Sauveur is considered less predictable, with three steep blocks and the hardest finale. The eastern side via La Mongie climbs more evenly and is easier to pace.

When is the Col du Tourmalet open?

Usually from June to October. The Tourmalet sits in the middle of the La Mongie and Barèges ski area and often opens as one of the last passes of the Pyrenees after the winter closure.